Narrow streets and picturesque houses with lavish gardens characterize the old fishing village Arild in Sweden
Black clouds and thunder notified rain and we decided to explore the Kullen peninsula by car on an early Saturday afternoon. It was way past lunchtime and Bente`s stomach came with puny sounds. We had both decreasing blood glucose and for Bente`s part that leads to slight irritation and some times crass yelps towards me. The only thing that helps against this condition is to supply food, and preferable good food.
A large sign announced wine tasting and summer restaurant. We had driven past before we managed to associate this with the possibility the get a good lunch. So Per took a sharp turn and we just managed to get safely under the roof in the summer restaurant before the rain poured down.
Arild`s vineyard is run by Annette and Jonas Ivarsson and Jonas is behind the counter when we arrive. He tells us that they have been doing this for some years and are producing around 5000 bottles of wine a year. Due to Swedish alcohol regulations he is not allowed to sell us wine in bottles but we are allowed to drink his wine accompanied with food. Sweden and Norway have similar alcohol politic and regulations. That means alcohol can only be purchased in special shops owned by the State. The good thing is that these shops have a lot of expertise and you will always get a lot of useful advise about which wine to drink to certain kind of food. At Arild`s vineyard you can join a wine tasting party every day if you pre book. Unfortunately their website is only in Swedish.
The vineyard is situated next to the road down to the small fishing village Arild on the north side of Kullen peninsula. Vines grow in neatly rows on the slopes and brought my thoughts back to Alsace where we have been many times. At Arild`s vineyard they also run a hotel and a restaurant and you can participate in many activities suitable for children as well. The farm pond has a dock with an old boat moored and it is a very popular playground for kids.
We sat down in these charming surroundings in pouring rain and ordered fish soup and fillet of lamb. The dry white wine of the house tasted perfect, though we are not wine experts. We know what we like and this wine we really liked. It took some time before the food came on the table, something we see as a good sign. Good food never arrives at the table in only 15 minutes.
Bente`s fish soup looked tempting when it finely arrived at the table. Saffron colored with both red and white fish and a good taste of shellfish. The saffron was not only for decoration the taste was also perfectly balanced. “This is the best fish soup I have had in a long time”, said my dearest. After trying a sip myself I can vouch for that, it was good stuff. My fillet of lamb together with potato cake, delicious salad and chevre crème was a pleasure. The thin fillets of lamb, and I know from my own experience, can be hard to prepare correct. These fillets are perfectly prepared by an experienced cook, so I was thinking. Therefore the surprise was great when we after the meal were presented to the cooks.
Mathilda and Mathilda was their name and at the risk of offending them both I guess the age to something like 17-20. Two young and beautiful girls making this kind of excellent food at such a young age must become something big in the future. The two cooks together with the experienced waitress Li, the daughter of the house, all delivered a fantastic food experience. And I will take the risk to offend the waitress as well and guess her age to 15-16 and already very professional. Thank you to Arild`s vineyard, we would love to come back!
The fishing village Arild hangs almost in the slope down to the sea. Most houses are old and restored with great respect for traditional architectural traditions and culture. Thatched roofs are common in the village and the front gardens are almost overgrown by shrubs and all kind of flowers. I believe they have a competition about who has the most impressive entrance and front garden. Hollyhocks in all possible colors are planted everywhere. There is a favorable climate on this slope protected by the mountain. Flora is also rich because many people here were sailors and brought home exotic seeds and plants.
Old fashion village idyll in Arild, Sweden tourism
Arild is probably named after a person named Arild; it is a common male name in Scandinavia. One of the myths tells that a knight sent his stepson on a ship out on the ocean. He told the captain to put the ship on fire. The stepson died and his body was washed ashore at Arild. The mourners carried the body to the place in Arild where they then build a small chapel, Arild`s Chapel. The chapel is from the 1400`s and is the only preserved coastal chapel in this area. There is a very rich history with many legends and myths concerning this area but very little or none at all in English.
White bathrobes seem to be the latest fashion for the locals in Arild. We met a lot of people walking through the narrow streets wearing white bathrobes. Not only to and from the beach but also to and from the bakery shop. Arild is a typical summer village with an informal lifestyle and during winter it is quiet and deserted. Already in the late 1800 Arild was popular among artists. The Danish artist P. S. Krøyer, one of the most famous Skagen painters of that time, also visited Arild. At that time Arild played the same role as Skagen did in Denmark.
The small port of Arild is protected by a breakwater and just beside is a small beach. There are organized scuba diving classes and you can hire a kayak. Arild is situated near the Kullen Nature Reserve and there are a lot of possibilities to walk on paths in the woods and along the seaside. The area is called Kullabygden and has a lot to offer. The distances are not large so with a bike you can easily get around. There are a lot of hotels, guesthouses and camping sites in the area and you can rent a bike at many of them. Kullen has two golf courses. The official tourist website for Kullen area is only in Swedish. That really sad, Sweden tourism would benefit if these information was easy to find for English speaking tourists as well.
But the best thing with Kullen and Arild is the easy access to the wilderness, charming villages, traditional architecture and the beauty of the landscape.
Old traditional houses in Arild, Sweden
Arild and Kullen is located just north of Helsingborg a bit less than 1 hour driving and 2 hours from Malmø. You can take a bus from Helsingborg. Its not far from Copenhagen either and about 5 hurs drive from Oslo in Norway.
There are many hotels but summer is high season so book in advance. Mølle or Arild is the two most convinient villages to stay in.
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