In Mora you can find peace and serenity
From our home in Fredrikstad it is 450 km northeast to Mora in Dalarna. Shortest path is through Oslo then Kongsvinger and in to Sweden to Torsby where E45 takes you north to Mora. It’s about the same distance from Stockholm. If you travel by car it’s a beautiful drive through Swedish forest, lakes and rivers and the architecture gets more and more special as you drive north.
Mora is located at two lakes. The biggest is Siljan and the other is Orsa. And by Orsa Lake we will stay in a small guesthouse on a farm for two nights. Mora is greeting us with a bright sunny weather and an architecture that gave us a nice impression of the old farming community. At the same time Mora is also a typical modern Swedish town with architecture you can find everywhere else in Sweden (and in Norway as well). A kind of city architecture that I have very little nice things to say about. Men the central part of the town with the church, the Zorn Museum and the final end of the famous Vasalopp, is charming.
I should also have written the famous Zorn Museum or the Museum after the famous Anders Zorn. The world famous painter from Mora. I am very interested in art nut I have to admit that I knew very little about Anders Zorn before I suddenly was in the middle of Zorn country. Zorn is Mora and Mora is Zorn regardless if the Mora knife and Vasaloppet is more generally known. We will come back to Zorn and his wife’s influence in Mora in a later post.
We had spent the most of the day on the road so we drove the last 8-10 km further north of Mora on the east side of Orsa lake to Myrängsgården. We had found this guesthouse on a farm on Internet. They advertised with unique living facilities on the old farm and good Italian/Mediterranean food. That’s temptations we hardly can say no to. Short traveled food with inspiration from the south of Europe is music in my ears.
Some times it’s just too hard to find proper words to describe an experience. Myrängsgården guesthouse is such an experience – I don’t know exactly how to describe this place for others. Some places just have to be experienced at first hand. However, I will try to give you some impression of the place.
On a narrow winding dirt road suddenly a sign appeared to the parking place for the guesthouse. We turned left and came on the backside of some houses we hardly could imagine being a guesthouse with Italian food. My dear said; you must have driven the wrong way.
But how could I have driven wrong on a small road of only 100 meters and with out any exits. Slightly annoyed my dear went out of the car and towards the nearest courtyard. A smiling woman came out of the house and could confirm that this indeed was the guesthouse and welcome, she said smiling.
My dear looks around with eyes wide open and says gently – how nice! I light my cigarette and look at the 3 or 4 children that are jumping on the trampoline with happy screams. The main building that we are approaching from behind is under rehabilitation. An old Dalarna farm with some new thoughts where they have extended the building in recent times. Not bad!
The barn lies like an L into the courtyard and is a very nice old building with horses in during night. The courtyard is filled with a horse trailer, a refrigerator, some tools and bits and bobs here and there. The lawn had not been cut for some time and the edge trimmer was hardly used at all. Some children bikes where lying casually around the courtyard among tables and chairs. But well within the courtyard the view over the Orsa Lake was superb. The same must be said of the welcome, it was warm and cordial.
You do not get any luxury here, but you are welcomed as one of the family. We got installed on the first floor in a very charming room with a gun safe and all the tools you would need to clean your weapons. Nice to know was my first thought. Our room was called the suite. It was actually two rooms, a beautiful bedroom innermost and an extra bedroom outside with a small bathroom. The outer room had no door and the innermost room had a door but no key. Everything was clean and sweet with romantic beddings and a cat that slept on one of the beds in the outer room. Animals are welcome at this farm and they have cats, dogs and horses themselves.
Everything inside this farm has a distinctive, old charm. A new extension with a dining room connects the old buildings together in the same spirit as the original architecture. It’s a hodgepodge of new and old and the old stuff must be very old! The place is characterized by chaos, but the chaos is of the charming type.
In the dining room we met the chef Per, an earthy man who could tell us that we could have dinner whenever we wanted. To day he would serve scallops with saffron sauce, trout for the main course and chocolate fondant for desert. At the same time we met the hostess for the place, a warm and cheerful woman. We discovered later that she also was full of energy and never stood still. She served us delightful Chablis before dinner, but first we took a walk in the nearby woods to check out the environment. We went down to Orsa Lake and found the first mushrooms of the year.
We had ordered accommodation for 2 days including breakfast and 3-course dinner both days. The food was very good and we enjoyed the surrounding atmosphere. The second day we spent in Mora. The meeting with Zorn, his museum, and the house he lived in and his collection of very old houses was a pleasant surprise. Much more exciting than we had thought. Back at the guesthouse in the evening we was served a Zorn menu, just excellent! We got pea soup with champagne in as an appetizer. As a main course we had roast lamb and then panna cotta as desert.